MODESPHERA

you are the fashion

France

The basic garments of the French dressing used in France for men and women in the Middle Ages were two tunics and a cloak. In the 12th century the underwear tunic developed to a shirt or a underwear made of batiste, a smooth fabric called after it's inventor, Batiste Chambray. The outer tunic gave origin to the overcoat, a kind of straight cape with a upper hole for the head, sleeveless and wide cuffs done up at the sides. During winter it was also used a jacket lined with leather.

In the 13th century the overcoat was the most used garment, for men's it hung a bit more down than the knees with short sleeves or sleeveless The farmer used a smock made of rustic fabric and covered their head with a hood. The women used a tunic or a long overcoat and a wool cape. They covered their head with a square cloth which hide the hair or wore a headdress with a tie that covered laterally the chin and the face.



1. Lady.
2. Farmer with a hood and smock.
3. Farmer, traveller and priest.
4. Farmer, lady and village woman.

In the 14th century, the fashion in France developed very slowly. The overcoat was still the most used garment, it was long below the knew and was tighten to the waist with a leather belt. The garment had short sleeves but during this century were longer and sometime so exaggerated that they hung to the floor. Those outlandish sleeves were a characteristic of the age during which the overcoat developed and opened at the sides allowing to be seen a tight garment called 'otehardie'. Men wore long sewn underpants and tighten to the legs. Besides It started to be used a front buttoned tight tunic with long buttoned sleeves. The belt was used, generally, below the waist, resting on the the hips. It was easy to spot the variety in the headdress, both feminine and masculine to which several fabric and materials were used; velvet, silk, gold yarn, feather, felt...

The shoes were made of smooth leather and the thin sole was protected with wood.

One of the most characteristic details of the feminine clothing in the Middle Ages, especially from the 13th century, was the headdress. At the beginning the women's hair was hidden under a cloth or a headdress with a tie that covered head and neck.
Later on, a small headdress with a white fabric crown fastened with a lace below the chin. In the 15th century the turban appeared and covered all the hair. Some had outlandish shapes and were big filled rolls.

The sharp-pointed or hennis offered diferent shapes and sizes, but in most of the cases were compained by a veil that floted freely.

The materials used for the headdress were silk, velvet and yarn of gold.



5. Feminine headdress.
6. Masculine headdress.

In the 15th century a deep transformation in the feminine fashion was noticeable. The overcoat, the most used garment during the previous centuries, was replaced by a real dress. It was characteristic for having a tight bodice, high and tight waist, wide neckline, tight sleeves and a full skirt.

The shoes were made of velvet garnished with embroidery and were pointed. Some times that huge point was fastened to the ankle by a gold or metal chain. It allowed to the nobility to use a point of about 60 cm long, the gentlemen, 30cm long and the village people only 5 or 6. The shoes showed then, the social class.

During this century is noticeable a biggest differentiation in the dressing of the different social classes.

The women dressed a enormous cape lined with fur.

The men used capes of different styles, some were wide with collar and buttoned on the shoulder, It has also used the hopalande of Dutch origin with floating sleeves and tight on the waist by a leather belt. They covered their hear with felt hats or hoods.

The people from the village dressed simple tunics of rustic fabric long to the knees and covered their heads with a hood that hung over the shoulders. Under it they used tight trousers and flexible leather boots.



7. Lady, girl and governess.
8. Wealthy man and homeless.
9. Nobility hat.
10. Civil servant.

Author: Vicen


Article from the website: Moda en la Historia